Saturday, June 10, 2023

Sheboygan Hard Rolls

 





If you know, you know.

Nothing makes a grilled Bratwurst or cheese steak taste better than putting it on a Sheboygan Hard Roll.  They are simply the best. Light, crusty, full of flavor, nothing even compares. The best ones come from Johnston’s Bakery or City Bakery in Sheboygan Wisconsin.

Unfortunately I live 1000 miles away from Sheboygan WI and can only get them by mail order, which is good, but I want them fresh from the oven and that means learning to make them myself.

This summer I set out on a quest to develop a recipe for authentic bakery-style hard rolls for the home baker.  I began with a recipe for German Brötchen, a fussy recipe that involves making an overnight poolish, and then many hours of prep the following day.  The result was beautiful, tasty and wrong.  The rolls were too dense, and just didn’t have the right flavor.  Back to the drawing board.

A friend of mine Corrine Heyeck, suggested that I join a Facebook group called Artisan Bread Bakers, for further research. I travelled down several rabbit holes in this excellent group and eventually found the recipe that would serve as my base recipe.

The base recipe was found in the Milwaukee Journel Sentinel archives and was glitchy and slow loading.  Thankfully I snagged a screenshot of the original recipe.

I made this recipe and EUREKA! It was exactly what I had been looking for! Sheer perfection!  The inside was light and cottony, with a paper thin crusty shell, that eventually became soft.  These rolls do not remain crunchy, but respond well to a light toasting on a baking stone or grill (that’s how it’s done in WI).

The original recipe needed a little work to get it ready for a home baker to produce consistent results. First of all the recipe calls for “high gluten flour “ which is t readily available to most home bakers.  High gluten flour has 14% protein.  In order to remedy this, I added vital wheat gluten (VWG) to bring my flour up to 14%.  This required a little math and you will likely have to do the same unless you are using the flour I used: King Arthur Bread Flour.


King Arthur Bread Flour is 12.7% gluten.  This means that in every 100grams of flour, 12.7 of those grams are gluten.  If I add 1.3grams of  VWG for every 100 grams of bread flour I use, for a recipe calling for 500grams of high gluten flour, I would use 500 grams Bread flour plus  5 x 1.3 grams VWG, or 6.5 grams.

If your base flour is a different % protein, you will need to make the calculations for yourself and modify the recipe accordingly.

Secondly, the recipe called for “scoop and sweep” measurements which opens the door to tremendous variation.  I converted everything to metric measurements which will improve consistency.

Next, I added 2 tsp diastatic malt.  The enzymes in the malt assist in helping the yeast process the flour and release more gluten, for a higher rise, as well as adds incredible flavor, aroma and color.

I used instant rapid rise yeast for this recipe and have not tested any other types of yeast yet to see if they also produce the same results. My guess is that they will require longer proofing times, but as of to day June 11, 2023, I have not yet tested them.

Lastly a word about water and hydration. To ensure you get the loftiest rise possible, it’s a good idea to use bottled spring water.  Tap water or city water is treated with chemicals that inhibit the yeast development.  This is the same reason the recipe instructs adding the sat AFTER the dough is fully formed in the mixing bowl- salt inhibits yeast.  The hydration for this bread is 74%.  Hydration is simply a measure of the weight of the flour compared to the water in this recipe. The higher the hydration, the more holes you have in the bread. 

Do not skimp on the 12-minute kneading time, you want to develop all that gluten!  Keep a small bowl of flour and another of spring water for final adjustments to the dough.  As you get more adept with this recipe you will begin to know what the dough should look like and how to tweak it to get there.

Another trick I used was to oil a coat hanger that has a wooden dowel on the horizontal bar to make the indentations in the dough. Super easy.


Sheboygan Hard rolls

Flour 555g

Water 413g

Hydration 74%




500g King Arthur Baking flour (12.7% protein)

6.5 g Vital Wheat Gluten

2 tsp diastatic malt powder

370 g spring water ( not city or tap; 74% hydration)

3Tbsp unsalted butter ( or lard or vegetable shortening)

1 1/2 Tbsp instant rapid rise yeast

1 tsp table salt

Spray vegetable oil

Fine ground yellow cornmeal or semolina flour for dusting baking sheet

1/2 tsp corn starch dissolved in 1/2 tsp cold water

1 cup boiling water

Additional boiling water for steam


In the bowl of a stand mixer with the hook attachment combine flour, vital wheat gluten, diastatic malt powder, spring water, butter, and yeast. Mix on medium low speed until a dough begins to form. Add salt. Continue to knead on medium low for 12 minutes until a smooth, elastic and tacky dough forms. The dough should not stick to the sides of the bowl, but will stick to the bottom of the bowl.


After kneading, transfer dough to a lightly oiled container, cover with a kitchen towel and rise until quadrupled (30-60 minutes in my kitchen, yours will probably differ).


Preheat oven to 425° F. Place a baking stone on a shelf in the upper half of your oven.  On the rack directly below the baking stone, place a cast iron skillets this will receive boiling water for the steam bake.


Generously grease a half baking sheet with butter, and dust completely with cornmeal or semolina.


Gently deflate dough, and turn out on a very lightly floured surface


Divide the dough as equally as possible into 12 pieces. Form each piece onto a smooth ball of dough and place on prepared baking sheet. Spray rolls lightly with oil.


Lightly oil a 12- inch dowel and use it to press an indentation into the rolls, four at a time, pressing down firmly, but not cutting rolls in half.


Cover rolls with a kitchen towel and proof for about 45 minutes ( or until the rolls have dramatically risen at least doubling in volume) at room temp.  Again, different kitchens will require different proof times.


Bring a kettle of water to a boil.


After rolls have risen, uncover rolls. Combine corn starch and cold water, then pour into one cup of boiling water and stir until smooth. Brush rolls with starch wash immediately before putting in oven.


After putting buns in the oven, add 1 1/2 cups boiling water to cast iron skillet and immediately close oven. Bake for 5 minutes, then remove skillet of water. Continue to bake 13- 20 minutes until rolls are well risen, golden brown and sound hollow when thumped.


Remove rolls from oven and transfer them to a wire cooling rack to cool.  The rolls will become soft, which is what you want.


Serve same day, or put lukewarm rolls in a plastic bag and freeze while still tepid.


Sunday, January 8, 2023

Aunt Tannie’s Chocolate Cookies




 Another classic cookie post.


This recipe is legendary in my family.  These crispy/chewy chocolate cookies are simply known as Aunt Tannie’s Chocolate cookies.  Tannie Daane was my ex’s aunt on her father’s side and she was a marvelous baker who lived her entire life in Sheboygan Wisconsin.


The cookie is not too sweet and has a very dark chocolate flavor, almost reminiscent of an Oreo.  They are positively addicting.


Aunt Tannie’s Chocolate Cookies

Makes 5 dozen


1 1/4 cups butter, room temp

2 cups granulated sugar ( 200 g )

2 eggs, room temp

2 tsp vanilla extract

2 cups all purpose flour ( 240 g )

3/4 cup cocoa powder ( 90 g )

1 tsp baking soda

1/2 tsp salt.


Preheat oven to 350°F.

Combine butter and sugar in a stand mixer and cream with paddle attachment until light and fluffy ( about seven minutes). Add eggs and vanilla and cream until smooth.  

In a separate bowl combine remaining dry ingredients and whisk to blend. Add dry ingredients to creamed butter and mix on low speed until well-mixed.


Drop teaspoons of batter about 2 inches apart on parchment-lined baking sheet ( cookies will spread during baking).  Bake 8-9 minutes. DO NOT OVERBAKE.

Remove cookies from oven and let rest on sheet for one minute before removing to a wire cooling rack.

Monday, January 2, 2023

Poppy Seed Cookies

 



This is an old cookie recipe I haven’t made for decades, but I decided to make for Christmas this year.  The cookies are like a delicious crunchy yet tender shortbread, fragrant with vanilla, nuts and butter with a nice bite from dried ginger.  They are plain to look at but usually end up being the first cookie to disappear. They are absolutely divine with a cup of Earl Grey tea or a cup of coffee.  I think they should be made all year long, and I am resolved to make that happen in 2023.

I first tasted these cookies when I was. Ph.D. Student at Oak Ridge National Laboratories.  The recipe is from Diana M. Popp, who was the wife of the director of my graduate program, Dr, Raymond A. Popp.  My bestie in grad school, Jane Gallager Mural, worked in the Popp’s lab and often house-sat the Popp’s magnificent farm on the banks of the Clinch river in East Tennessee.

Diana was a talented mouse geneticist, amazing cook and fabulous hostess, and general “lab mom” for us students.

Here is the recipe:

Diana Popp’s Poppyseed Cookies

16 oz. Unsalted butter, room temperature 
1 cup granulated sugar
1 egg yolk
1 tsp vanilla extract
2 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1/2 tsp powdered dried ginger
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 cup poppy seeds
1/2 cup toasted, chopped pecans

Cream together butter and sugar until fluffy.  Add egg yolk and vanilla and cream until well-incorporated.

Combine flour, ginger, salt and poppy seeds in a separate bowl and whisk until blended.  

Add flour mixture to creamed butter and mix until combined. 

Add pecans and mix until well distributed through the dough.

Place the dough on a sheet of plastic wrap and shape into a  2-foot log, using plastic wrap to assist with rolling.

Wrap tightly and refrigerate until firm, about an hour.

Preheat oven to 325°F

Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper.  Cut log into 1/4 inch slices and place on cookie sheet at least 1 inch apart.

Bake for 12 minutes til cookies are just beginning to brown.  Cool completely on a rack.

https://www.researchgate.net/scientific-contributions/Diana-M-Popp-39844608



Sunday, November 8, 2015

Low carb Smoked Gouda "mac-n-cheese" made with Cauliflower




Well hello again!

It's been a while! While I have been gone I have been dealing with some medical issues. For one, I have developed diabetes, mainly due to my being overweight. This did not come as a huge surprise since diabetes runs in my family and  I suppose it was only a matter of time.

I have adopted a low carbohydrate lifestyle and in three months time I have lost nearly 25 pounds and have my diabetes under control enough that I no longer need to take my medications, PROVIDED I continue to follow my low carb lifestyle.

Yes folks, sugar really is the enemy. As you may, or may not be aware, carbohydrates are made from long chains of simple sugars like glucose, so every time you eat bread, pasta, rice or potatoes you are eating sugar. This can wreak havoc on your blood glucose. If you are a foodie like me, this can create quite a dilemma.

Luckily the answer lies in creative cooking with other ingredients that are naturally low in carbs. Things like the cauliflower in this dish make an excellent substitute for macaroni.  I have made pizza crust and risotto and "mashed potatoes" all with amazingly versatile cauliflower.

 The other good news is that we are beginning to understand that fat is not necessarily the enemy we once thought it was. This is not to say that you should sit down and consume a pound of butter, but that fat can be used to enhance the flavor and texture of low carb foods in a way that makes a low carb lifestyle not only doable, but, dare I say it, enjoyable!

As an added bonus, since gluten-free cooking and the paleo diet craze are so popular, low carb substitutes are easy to find in most grocery stores and the internet is chock full of recipes from folks like me thinking outside the culinary box. 

The key to this lifestyle is to keep things in perspective and enjoy indulgent dishes like this in moderation.  Do I eat this every week? No! But when the craving for mac-n-cheese comes knocking,why not enjoy a much healthier alternative! Learn to read nutrition labels on everything you buy, it's amazing how many hidden carbohydrates are in the food we eat, especially processed foods.

I have decided to reimagine many of my most popular recipes and the result has been delicious. Even picky eaters and vegetable haters love this rendition of Mama Ozzy's decadent cheesy baked pasta goodness.

This recipe is a compilation of the best tips and tricks I could find on the internet combined with Mama Ozzy's sensibilities for flavor! I hope you will try this terrific dish, healthy comfort food at it's finest!

Mama Ozzy's Smoked Gouda Cauliflower and Cheese
Serves 8

1 large head cauliflower, green parts removed and cut into small chunks
15 oz. ricotta cheese
8 oz. sour cream
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 egg 
3/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp turmeric powder
1/2 tsp dry mustard
1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp garlic powder
1/4 tsp smoked paprika
1/8 tsp cayenne pepper
8 oz shredded smoked Gouda cheese
16 oz shredded extra sharp cheddar cheese (reserve 1/2 cup for topping)
1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese
3 slices fried bacon, crumbled
1cup crushed fried pork rinds (chicharrones)

Place chopped cauliflower in a large glass bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and microwave on high power for 10 minutes. Let cauliflower rest, still covered, for 30 minutes to cool down.

Chop the cauliflower into small chunks, stems and all.


You should get about 8 cups of chopped cauliflower.

After microwaving, let the cauliflower steam for thirty minutes. The plastic wrap will shrink down to create a cool tight seal!

Pre heat oven to 350 F.

Empty the cauliflower into a clean cloth dish towel ( it will still be pretty hot) and carefully squeeze out as much liquid as possible.

After thirty minutes dump the cauliflower on a clean dish towel.

Twist the towel tightly over the sink to remove as much water as possible.

In another large bowl combine ricotta, sour cream, cream, egg, spices. 


Add all the cheeses and mix to combine. 



 Finally, add the squeezed cauliflower and fold until well blended.  Place in a 8x11 glass baking pan ( no need to grease).


Top with reserved cheese, crumbled bacon and pork rinds.  


Bake 45 minutes until bubbly and golden. Allow to rest for 15 minutes before serving.





Sunday, March 16, 2014

Home-Made Corned Beef and Pastrami



Happy St. Patricks Day!
I think we all know by now that there is absolutely nothing Irish about corned beef.  Corned beef is much more Jewish/German than anything else, but since we all seem to love it this time of year, I thought it might be time to post how easy it is to make your own corned beef.  I use Alton Brown's excellent recipe as a guide for mine.

First things first.  The word "corned" actually means to be cured in a salty brine.  It is an ancient method of preserving meat for long periods of time.  Making your own corned beef requires at least a two week time investment, but the actual work can be completed in under an hour.  You must use Pink Salt or Prague Powder in the curing process or you risk contamination of the meat and you will never achieve that glorious red color of the final product.

And since we are making the commitment to brining our own beef, we might as well go the extra step and make pastrami.  Pastrami is nothing more than smoked corned beef.

So on this St. Patrick's Day I present to you two decidedly non Irish foods: Corned Beef and Pastrami. Either of them makes for an unforgettable Reuben sandwich. Na Zdravi!

Corned Beef 

1, 5-6 lb beef brisket, cut in half

For the Brine:
1 cup kosher salt
1/2 cup brown sugar
2 Tbsp pink salt (also known as Prague Powder or Salt Peter)
2 cinnamon sticks broken in to large pieces
1 tsp mustard seed
8 whole cloves
1 tsp ground allspice
12 juniper berries
2 bay leaves, crumbled
1/2 tsp ground dried ginger
2 quarts water
2 lbs ice cubes

In a large pot combine salt, sugar, spices.  Add 2 quarts water and bring to a boil.  Remove from heat.  Add 2 lbs ice cubes and stir until brine is cooled and ice is melted.

Brine ingredients

A kitchen scale helps weight the ice cubes


Place each half of the beef brisket in a large, seal-able plastic bag.  Evenly distribute the brine and spices between the two bags.  Remove all air and seal the bags.  Refrigerate at least 14 days, rotating bags occasionally, before cooking.

Let this guy hang out in the refrigerator for at least 2 weeks


To cook Corned Beef:

3 quarts water
1 tsp kosher salt
1 Tbsp cracked black pepper
1 tsp ground allspice
2 bay leaves
1 cup chopped carrots
1 cup chopped onion
1 cup chopped celery
optional  1 cabbage (I prefer Savoy cabbage) , cored and chopped
optional  1 lb. small new potatoes

Remove corned beef from brine and rinse briefly to remove any seasoning clinging to the beef.  Place beef in a large heavy metal pot and cover with 3 quarts of water.  Add salt, pepper, allspice, bay leaves, carrots, onion and celery.  Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium low and cover with a lid.  Simmer for 3 hours.

Add Cabbage and potatoes (if using) and cook over medium heat, until cabbage and potatoes are tender (about 30-45 minutes).

Remove Beef from pot and place on cutting board.  Cut into slices across the grain.  Serve with cabbage and other cooked vegetables and broth.

Boiled corned beef, ready for slicing



A grilled Reuben sandwich and the cabbage 
and potatoes makes for a hearty delicious meal


Pastrami:

2- 3 Tbsp cracked black pepper
Apple wood chips

Remove Corned Beef from brine and rinse briefly to remove any seasoning clinging to the beef.  Gently pat beef dry with paper toweling, then place on a baking sheet and coat with black pepper. pressing into all sides of the beef.

Crusted with cracked black pepper and ready to be smoked

Prepare charcoal smoker.  Smoke for 6 hours over apple wood chips until black.

Remove meat from smoker and place in a 9x13 glass baking pan.  add 1 cup water, cover tightly with foil and bake for an additional 6 hours at 200 F.  Cool completely before slicing.

O.M.G.


Sunday, November 10, 2013

Mushroom Paprikás (Paprikash)



Well hello!  Long time no see!

It has been a long time since I posted any recipes, and I do have a good reason for it.  I was ill in May and upon recovering, I was promoted to department head of Arts and Sciences at my college, which was quite a change for me.  I have been busier than a one-legged man in an ass-kicking contest!  Now that things have calmed down a bit, I thought it might be time to pick up the pen and start blogging again. 

So... it is autumn and time when I crave hearty, simple and earthy foods like this dish.  Hungarian Paprikás (pronounced paprikash) is usually made with chicken, but I much prefer this vegetarian version.  I think the mushrooms have so much more flavor when slowly caramelized with onions, deglazed with brandy and are enrobed in a silky paprika sauce.

As you might imagine from the name, paprikás is all about paprika.  I like to use three kinds in this dish: Plain paprika is sweet and mildly peppery; smoked paprika is earthy and smoky; and hot paprika is spicy... really seriously spicy, so go easy with it, a little goes a long way.


3 kinds of paprika, thyme and brandy... just part of what makes this dish amazing!

I like to finish the dish with a few drops of black truffle oil, which seems really fancy, expensive and exotic, but really is not that bad.  A small bottle of white truffle oil will cost about $15.00, but since you only use about 3 drops in a dish (it is very very powerful) a small bottle lasts a very long time.  Try it, you will be amazed what it adds to a dish!
This little beauty was a stocking-stuffer from Doug.
  Excellent gift idea for the cooks on your list!


Mushroom Paprikás (Paprikash)
serves 6-8

1 /2 cup butter (or olive oil)
3 medium onions, diced
1- 1.5 lb fresh mushrooms thickly sliced
2 red bell peppers, seeded, diced
2 cloves garlic minced
1 Tbsp paprika
1 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp hot paprika
1 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp cracked black pepper
1/4 cup brandy
2 cups water
1 cup sour cream
2 - 3 drops black truffle oil (optional)

1 lb wide egg noodles, prepared according to package directions
1/4 cup minced parsley

In a large deep skillet melt butter (or olive oil) over medium high heat.  once hot, Add onions and saute until translucent, about 15 minutes.

Add mushrooms and saute, until they have released their water and water has evaporated, about 20 minutes.

You'll need a deep skillet to hold all the mushrooms until they cook down...


Once the mushrooms have released their water and it has almost completely evaporated, 
the mushrooms will begin to caramelize...yum!

Add red bell peppers and garlic and cook until peppers are just tender.

Add all 3 paprikas, thyme, salt and pepper and cook 2 minutes.  Add brandy, and carefully burn off alcohol with a lit match.

Add 2 cups water and let mixture cook over medium high heat until a thick, stew like sauce is created (about 20 minutes).  Stir in sour cream and truffle oil.  Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve immediately over buttered egg noodles with parsley.


Saturday, May 18, 2013

Strawberry Pavlova



This is what we served for dessert for Mother's Day.  Light and airy, melt-in-your-mouth pavlova with organic strawberries in balsamic vinegar and honey.  The perfect ending to any meal.

Pavlova was created in the 1920's by an Australian chef in honor of a visit by famed Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova.  It is a meringue-based confection topped with freshly whipped cream and fresh fruit.  The meringue is made with a small amount of vinegar which keeps the meringue soft like a marshmallow.

The combination of soft meringue fruit and cream is incredible.  It is incredibly light and incredibly delicious.  Best of all Pavlova has a very short shelf life and needs to be entirely consumed shortly after it is assembled or it will begin to disintegrate.  I have never had a problem with asking my guests to help finish the Pavlova, they are always happy to oblige!

Strawberry Pavlova
serves 8

4 egg whites
1 cup sugar
2 Tsp corn starch
1 tsp white vinegar
1/2 tsp vanilla

1 cup heavy cream
3 Tbsp powdered sugar

3 cups sliced fresh strawberries
1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 Tbsp honey

Preheat oven to 175F.

In the bowl of a stand mixer whip the egg whites until frothy.  With the mixer running, slowly add the sugar.  Continue to whip until a very stiff and glossy meringue is formed.

Sift cornstarch over meringue and fold in until well mixed.  Add vinegar and vanilla and fold until combined.

Trace an 8-inch circle on a piece of parchment paper on a baking sheet.  Spread meringue into a disc on the parchment paper.

Bake for 2 hours, then turn off oven and let meringue set in oven for an additional hour.

Place meringue in an airtight container until ready to serve.

In a cold bowl combine heavy cream and powdered sugar and whip until fluffy and stiff.  Spread cream over meringue.

In a separate bowl combine berries, vinegar and honey and toss to combine.  Spoon berries over the cream.

Serve immediately.